Back to the past during an archeological excursion in Trier
One might get dazed by the mind-boggling span of time covered
by an archeological museum. The one in
Trier undauntedly starts in pre-historic times before dwelling at length on the
brilliance of the Gallo-Roman civilisation which apparently fluidly merges (was
that so?) into early Christian times.
Because of the sheer solidity and beauty of some of the Roman
artefacts it is tempting to believe that true grace & dignity “can never pass into nothingness but will
still keep a bower quiet for us. and a sleep, Full of sweet dreams, and health,
and quiet breathing.”
However, historic timelines
ruin the illusion, cruelly counting the number of times Trier was destroyed: in
the 5th Century by Germanic Franks (5 times) and by the Huns. And after a return to splendour under Charlemagne
the timetable then marks the year 882 with a brief devastating comment; “Vikings
destroy Trier during Easter week (worst of 12 major destructions in all)”.
Afterwards, destruction is meted out by WWI and WWII bombings (“40% of structures flattened, an additional
35% damaged”).
But humankind is resilient -
unswayed by the succession of
disasters, archaeologists & art historians gather the fragments and tirelessly
reconstruct a parallel human history of arts & crafts, of traditions & believes, a ”Geistes-geschichte”.
And so an imaginative museum visitor can still pass, with equal admiration,
from the vestiges of the antique world to the remains of the Christian medieval
world. From a happy pagan world to a
suffering devout medieval humanity? Surely not, the
ancients “lived under the shadow of tragedy”
as much as medieval man feared his God.
But maybe from a stoic world to a more empathetic
world? Or so I am musing, not for the first
time, in front of a heart breaking pieta, with a Madonna holding her dead son
on her lap.
Contemporary reality
Contemporary reality bursts in: a rowdy class of school children has entered the
room, and is spilling over into the next. The teacher doesn’t take long to re-assert his
authority, with one boy charged to lead back stray pupils from the next room “hé les
gars, il faut venir par ici, il s’agit de Jésus Christ”
Most of the pupils faithfully troop again around
the teacher. It’s a French-speaking class - from Northern-Eastern France?
or from Belgium, Verviers perhaps? Judging by his accent, the teacher is of
Italian descent. The majority of the pupils seem to have African or North African
roots. Most of the girls wear headscarves – in different shapes and colours.
One girl is dressed from top to toe in a black dress – she’s excitedly showing something
on her smarthphone to her friend, who is dressed in skinny jeans and a leather jacket.
The teacher is guiding his troops brilliantly through Western
cultural history. With admirable enthusiasm & clarity he explains medieval iconography
- the role of Judas, the passionate
veneration for the Madonna. With gravity he admonishes his fidgety
teenage pupils “il faut toujours respecter les images et les symboles, même si ce sont
ceux des réligions des autres » .
Contemporary news
When waiting in a queue, sitting down in a café, or walking
by a newsstand – there’s no escaping the ardent German refugees-debate on TV
and in the papers. With German thoroughness all angles are shown and investigated:
from moving refugee tales and stories of
altruist relief over instances of petty self-interest & duplicity to sectarian
fights in asylum centres. From deep empathy to an even deeper seated fear of
being swept away by the sheer size and momentum of this exodus. Lofty moral obligations inspired by “history standing
in judgment” vie with rational real-politik.
The FAZ analyses the question with irrefitable logic “ Wenn man sich weniger attraktiv macht, denn
wird der Ansturm geringer. […] [auch] im Fluchtgeschehen spielt das Gesetz von Angebot und Nachfrage. Wenn ein Land wertvolle
öffentliche Güter wie Sicherheit und Daseinsvorsorge Bürgern anderer Staaten in
Aussicht stellt, dann darf es sich nicht wundern, wenn diese Einladung von
Hunderttausenden angenommen wird”.
Contemporary horror
The next day, on Saturday, scanning a German morning paper, I first think
it’s an old one – what with this small article mentioning "18 dead in Paris attacks"?
Checking the news on-line, my heart misses a beat – at least
120 dead.
Killing unsuspecting people during their Friday night out is
indeed easy.
Europe has had decades of (relative) peace, Europe seemed to
have managed to tame its old nationalist demons.
Who on November 13th in 1915 would have dared to hope that 100
years later France and Germany would be playing a friendly football game with
France’s president chatting with a German minister while watching the game? But then again, who in 1915 could have foreseen
that 100 years later religious fundamentalists would spread terror in Paris, randomly
killing people in bars, restaurants and a concert hall.
Shall Europe manage? Is a peaceful super-diverse society
überhaupt possible? Can we preserve our pluralist free societies? How many
liberties and illusions are we going to lose while combating terror?
Shall Europe manage?
In any case, let’s stick to the Parisian motto “Fluctuat Nec
Mergitur”
2 comments:
Fluctuat nec mergitur, it's beautiful enough.
Yes, who in 1915 could have foreseen the current situation? It's mind-boggling.
Bon courage in Brussels on this odd day, Flâneur.
an odd day indeed, with a security agent deployed even in the small local supermarket ...
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